Sparkling Seoul

It’s been a while since my so called travel buddies (Karlo, RJ, Cha and myself (and expanded to add better halves like Raf (Karlo’s BF) and Erik (Cha’s BF))) and I had a trip together. Last time we were all together was 2015 where we had a fun time in Thailand. We visited Bangkok’s many temples and experienced the crazy nightlife while we soaked up the sun and enjoyed the beach of Phuket.

After 2 years the gang is back together (missing Cha and Erik) and this time bundling up for some cold weather in Seoul, South Korea.

Gyeongbokgung Palace
We met up early at the airport because we had a morning flight to Seoul. I haven’t had sleep the night before since:


1. I haven’t packed at all and
2. I was afraid I might wake up late and miss my 7AM flight (which everyone else was thinking too)

Surprisingly all of us were early and was at the airport before 5AM. Well so much for being early as the line at the counter was long and pretty much wasn’t open yet. So instead of relaxing or getting breakfast, we were just in line waiting to be checked-in. 

With some little time to spare (since immigration took some time too), we had a quick breakfast since all of us didn’t get any before going to the airport (because everyone wanted to be early).

I was happy when we have boarded already, I had the luxury of selecting my seat so I selected a window seat so I cannot be disturbed while I am sleeping. Before take-off I was already passed out from sleep deprivation. For some reason, every time I travel especially on long haul flights, I always end waking up during meal service. True enough I did wake up just in time for my chicken adobo (which I appreciated since I was still hungry).

Day 1

Four hours later (and another hour or so of sleep), we arrived in Incheon, South Korea, woohoo! In the airport alone, we were already taking a lot of pictures. It was funny because we took so much time taking pictures and filling-up forms during immigration (I missed getting  one in the plane since I was knocked-out), that my luggage was one of the few left in the carousel (I mean the carousel already stopped and was just waiting for us to pick up our stuff).

Just arrived at Incheon South Korea
Before leaving the airport, we need to 2 things:
1. have money exchanged and
2. ask directions on how to reach our destination

Ready to explore Seoul
Typically we think that airport exchange rates won’t have competitive as compared to the city. Surprisingly, the rates were good (compared to the KRW we bought in Manila). Also, it’s good that there’s a tourist information kiosk right before the exits at the airport. There, we were able to get our T Money card which can be used on buses, trains and also for purchases (refer to the booklet for the list of merchants). The initial load costs 50,000 KRW and the stored value is 45,000 KRW (5,000 KRW is the cost of the card, and unfortunately non-refundable, you get to keep the card though). As advised by the lady where we got the card, it will be easier to reach our accommodation via Airport shuttle bus (which we also read about in a blog). We only need to go down at Namdaemun market which is part of the bus’s route. The fare costs 15,000 KRW but since we have the T Money card, its discounted to 13,500 KRW.
 
Me and RJ on our way to Seoul
The airport bus is comfortable, 3 seats per row and there’s room to put your bigger carry-on at the front of the bus and your smaller carry-on with you on your seat. Bigger luggage will need to be put at the bus’s compartment. It will be given a tag (just like check-in luggage in a plane). Travel time was a little over an hour and it was fast and convenient. As instructed after a couple of bus stops, we got down at Namdaemun market. From the blog we read, we needed to go to an underpass to the other side, look for the CU convenience store and there we’ll find 24 Guesthouse. 

We don't know where we are going
(L-R: Raf, Karlo, me & RJ)
We didn’t have a portable Wi-Fi yet (since we’ll rent one at the hotel). Good thing I printed out the hotel address in English and Korean and a nice lady was kind enough to Goggle map it for us and show us the way. Interestingly, we were already a few meters away from the CU convenience store which was the landmark.

Our humble accommodations
Once we got there (where we met Chris, our friend who flew in the day before), we checked-in, rested for a bit, a quick outfit change and we were off to go around Seoul. First was going around Namdaemun market. The market closes early (around 8 – 9 PM) so make sure to be there early in the day to get the stuff you need. 

Namdaemun Market
You have a lot of choices here from clothing, souvenirs as well as some street food if you’re hungry. There’s also a tourist marshall/officer in the market if you have any questions or in need of directions (which was pretty handy actually). After checking out the market quickly, we headed to City Hall station to catch the train to Dongdaemun to visit the Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
Snacks
Dongdaemun Design Plaza or also called DDP is an architectural beauty. It’s futuristic design stands out in the surrounding area. It kinda looks like a spaceship that landed in the middle of Seoul. There are exhibitions, café as well as retail stores in the plaza. It’s a very popular place and one shouldn’t miss taking a picture of the place especially at night.

Goofing around DDP


Cold night at DDP


Dongdaemun Design Plaza
The crew at DDP (L-R: me, Raf, Chris, Karlo & RJ)


Travel buddies (L-R: RJ, Karlo, Raf and me)

If the architecture of DDP isn’t enough, also part of the plaza is the Garden of Light exhibition. The open field is illuminated by hundreds of LED roses. It’s actually very beautiful at night and seems very popular with tourists and locals alike (hello date night).



LED Roses


LED Roses up close


LED Roses


Garden of Light

Travel Buddies (L-R: Raf, me, Karlo, RJ & Chris)
After appreciating architecture and art, Dongdaemun is also a popular shopping area. There are huge department stores surrounding DDP as well as a night market right across. We didn’t really buy anything since everything being sold were mostly winter clothes (because it was already winter, duh) and we already have enough winter gear to last our trip. Plus we wouldn’t be able to use them back in Manila (well maybe for future travels during autumn or winter). 


Dongdaemun district



Dongdaemun district


There are also some stores around (Olive and Young, Faceshop to name a few) and a lot of dining optios as well.


Christmas display at Dongdaemun


Dongdaemun district
We grabbed dinner, our first authentic Korean dinner and ofcourse, and I ordered the bibimbap which was delicious. Happy to have eaten one in Seoul because I always liked ordering it back in Manila. After a hearty dinner, what else to do but roam around the area before heading back home.

Bibimbap and kimchi
Note: There’s a tourist information center across from DDP if you have any questions or in need of directions or assistance.

Before going home, Chris and I decided to have a night cap in this boutique coffee shop a few meters away from the guesthouse. I liked the overall look and architecture of the place, very homey. The fact that I was already going to bed, I got coffee (they didn’t have any decaf) while Chris wanted to sleep well so he got some white wine. Anyway, despite the coffee I was still too tired and was knocked out to bed when I got back in my room.

Hanok Cafe


Hanok Cafe

Expenses for the day
T-Money card – 50,000 KRW (2326 PHP*)
Dinner – 8,000 KRW (372 PHP*)
Coffee – 4,500 (209 PHP*)

* Based on a conversion rate of 1 PHP = 21.5 KRW

Day 2

For today, we decided to take in the sights of the city. Everyone woke up a little late since we had a tiring 1st day (with our flight, touring and we kinda slept in late as well). It was a relief that Jheid was able to find her way to where we were staying since she arrived late last night. Our accommodation has free breakfast (very basic, your choice of cereal (regular/sweetened) and bread (with choice of peanut butter or jam as spread)). I was surprised because the family I was sitting with in the plane was also staying there. What’s funny is that a lot of Filipinos were also staying there, someone even said joked that it’s like we never left Manila and that the only difference was it was cold.

First stop on our city tour was Sungnyemun Gate which was just walking distance. This is one thing you can do in Seoul for free (woohoo!). There’s an information desk where you can also get a pamphlet (which I like to collect as a souvenir and put in my travel journal). Not much to see here, and you can spend around 15 minutes so you can go to your next stop.

Panorama of Sungnyemun Gate


You can get these handouts for free

Guards at the gate
Taking pictures with the guards


Sungnyemun Gate

After Sungnyemun Gate, we headed back to City Hall station, this time to catch a bus going to Gyeongbokgung Palace. You can actually see the palace from the station but it was still quite a walk, and no one was up for a long cold walk. Good thing is that we can use the T Money card on the city buses as well (very convenient). 

Where to go?
There’s a bus stop for the palace and that’s where we got off. Since we only had cereals for breakfast (and we’re used to eating rice in the Philippines which makes you instantly full), we grabbed a little snack near the bus stop that sold different types of breads.

Time for a pre-lunch snack
After the quick snack, we looked for a place to rent a Hanbok (which is very popular among tourist) so we can complete our look when touring the palace.  There are a lot shops around Gyongbukgung with different services and prices ranges as well. I got mine for 15,000 KRW good for 2 hours. These shops also offer luggage storage if you want to keep your clothes and other stuff while you’re in full Hanbok gear.

Renting my Hanbok


RJ and I in full Hanbok

What’s great about wearing one is that you don’t feel out of place since a lot of tourists like you are wearing one as well. Plus you get to enter the Palace grounds for free. Inside, you’ll have a glimpse of the main palace and get to see the throne room as well.


Intricate details of the palace
Inside the palace grounds

Entrance of the Palace


Running


Entrance of the Palace
After taking a million different pictures wearing our Hanbok (ofcourse we needed to make the most out of it and needed to have options so that we can post the best picture in our social media accounts), we made sure we returned it on time (plus we were already hungry it was past lunch time already). We scouted the surrounding area for a place to eat and after, with stomachs full, we went on to go to the next destination which is Bukchon Hanok village. 

Bukchon Hanok Village


Old houses at Bukchon Hanok Village
Bukchon Hanok village is an area which is composed of traditional Korean houses. The good thing is that these houses are not just for display, some operate as café’s, restaurants and I think some of them are guest houses as well. It’s a very popular tourist destination so be prepared for a lot of people walking around in the background of your pictures. The streets are tight and you’ll need to climb uphill to catch the best views of the city from the top. Also, there are signs advising tourists to keep quiet as some of the houses are really houses with people living there.

Bukchon Hanok village
When we were there, I guess there was construction or maybe some restoration ongoing since there were large tarps covering some of the houses which was a bummer because there were quite a few and sometimes it will get in the way of nice scenic or panorama shots.

After the village, next stop is Jogyesa temple. Good thing there’s a bust stop at Bukchon Hanok and one in front of Jogyesa temple. This was not part of the original itinerary, but I’m glad we dropped by since the temple was beautiful. Apart from the beautiful details and architecture, it also had a beautiful garden, lush and full of flowers (which was weird because it was so cold). The flowers made the surroundings bright and colorful.

Entering the temple
Beautiful details of the temple
Jogyesa Temple grounds

Jogyesa Temple
Jogyesa Temple grounds
Jogyesa Temple grounds
Garden at Jogyesa Temple
After checking out the temple, we decided to catch a break from all the walking and get some coffee. It’s a welcome relief to rest our tired feet and to also warm ourselves up. While the rest went for Dunkin’ Donuts, I was curious about the café next door and tried it out. It was called Billy Angel Cake Company and the interiors were the main reason I wanted to check it out.

Cake cake and more cake
Coffee break
Last stop for the day (or evening rather) was Namsan and the N Seoul tower. It was a cold evening and the last thing you would want to do is climb a mountain. But we did anyway. 


Rush hour

We got lost along the way and Google Maps wasn’t really helpful. We were walking wandering around until we decided it was too cold to walk (although we saw a group of joggers doing a night run, in that temperature) and got a cab which was a relief. We got to the cable car in no time and we were on our way up the mountain. Note that the cable car is not the only option, you can also hike your way up (definitely not us).

N Seoul Tower

Once you get there, you still have to climb a few steps to reach the top. There, you’ll be welcomed by the N Seoul tower and you have the love locks all around. You need to purchase a ticket to climb the tower but from where we were, we already had a good view of the city. 



View of Seoul from Namsan


Cold night at the mountain

If you’re a romantic and want to show some love, you can buy locks at the gift shop and lock it as a symbol of love. 


Love locks
Love locks overlooking Seoul
Love locks overlooking Seoul

It was very cold and the wind really didn’t help at all. Regardless, we were still out and about taking pictures and going around.


Bright lights
Much deserved dinner at Namsan


Dinner at Namsan

Expenses for the day

Snack 1,000 – KRW (46.5 PHP*)
Hanbok Rental – 15,000 KRW  for 2 hours (698 PHP*)
Lunch – 4,5000  KRW (209 PHP*)
Tea – 4,500 KRW (209 PHP*)
Coffee – 5,500 KRW (256 PHP*)
Cable Car (round trip) – 8,500 KRW (395 PHP*)
Dinner – 10,000 KRW (465 PHP*)

* Based on a conversion rate of 1 PHP = 21.5 KRW

Day 3

Since the Korean Visa’s were released very close to our departure date (mine was released earlier), the guys didn’t want to pre-book tickets to Everland since they were thinking that their Visa’s might not get approved. So we just planned on buying the ticket at the gates.

Welcome to Everland
The good thing about staying near City Hall station is that it’s an MRT station, bust stop, and the Everland bus shuttle service also has a pick-up point here. You just need to make sure you’re there since if you miss it, you’ll miss it for that day. The ride to Everland will take about and hour to get to the parking lot. From there, you’ll ride another bus that will take you to the park entrance.

Everland crew (L-R: me, Karlo, RJ, Chris and Raf)
Note: Pick-up schedule and location may be subject to change, refer to the Everland website and your local accommodations for information. Also, you’ll need to pay cash for the bus ride.

It was beautiful, sight since it snowed a little last night, there were snow on the gardens and I especially liked the delicate white snow on beautiful red poinsettias.


Snow on poinsettias
Welcome to Everland

After purchasing tickets, I made sure I got a park map (2 pieces), one I will use to navigate through the park and the other as a souvenir and put on my travel journal.


Where to go first?
Note: There’s a tourist discount for park tickets, so make sure to bring your passports. Also, keep an eye for coupons especially from the flyers that you can get from the airport. I didn’t know the flyer I got from the airport had a 20% discount on Everland tickets, and I only discovered it when I was already fixing my luggage going back home.


Carousel

Also, make sure you always have your ticket on hand since you need to present it everytime you ride (which is weird because you are already inside the park anyway, plus wouldn't a wristband be more convenient like in other parks?). Unfortunately, I lost mine (probably it fell out of my pocket) but I was told at the ticket counter I can show my receipt instead of a ticket. However there are strict staff personnel that would really ask for a ticket (although they let me ride anyway), so you can have one reissued at the information counters around the park.

As usual, we haven’t even gotten a few meters away from the entrance and we were already taking a bunch of pictures.
Churros
It was a cold day and thank God for heat lamps scattered around to keep everyone warm (probably that's my favorite part of the park, hahaha). Sad but the T Express (which is a wood rollercoaster) was closed due to high winds. Anyway it was still a fun day and we had fun with the other rides.


Let's go
Excited bunch
Literally hanging out
Going down


Once thing I always like when going to theme parks is the park parade. This was one was special because it was a Christmas theme. Kids and kids at heart (like me) enjoyed the parade and I was even feeling the music and I was bobbing my head and doing a little dance. I loved the colorful costumes and the energy was really happy, good way to pump up the crowd on a cold day.


Panda
Colorful float


Cupcake girls :)
Everland crew (L-R: Raf, me, RJ, Karlo, Jheid, Chris)
Christmas Fantasy at Everland
Finally after all the laughs and adrenaline from the rides, hunger finally caught up with us and went with something familiar, KFC. Good thing they also accept the T Money card as a form of payment.
Colorful pathway
We had a couple of more hours to enjoy the park and we capped with a trip to their zoo. It was cool because you get to ride a bus and you go inside the large cages where the wild life can just roam around while the bus drives through. I was partly sad, I don’t know probably the thought that they are held captive there plus it was freezing cold, I hope the park takes good care of all animals there.

White tigers
Before leaving, I had to buy something. I needed my ref magnet (which I always collect) and some little things for people back home. I got some cute animal pencils for my nephew and got some cute unicorn lollipops as well.  

To buy, or not to buy


Autumn leaf (credits to Chris)
Everland lit up beautifully at night with an explosion of lights on every corner. It was the best way to cap our day. We just had enough time to appreciate the beautiful displays since we had to catch our bus going back to the city by 6:30PM.

Everland at night


Everland at night


Everland at night


Everland at night


Everland at night


Goodbye Everland
Once we got back in the city (and since we were already hungry), first thing we wanted to do was grab dinner. At Namdaemun, there were several restaurants lined along the street. We decided to splurge and have some Korean BBQ. It was a little pricey but hey, why not have Korean BBQ in Korea. Plus we were so hungry (again no rice for lunch) that we wanted to eat already. It was well worth it as the food was delicious and since I ordered 2 dishes (soup and rice and some meat for grilling).
Korean BBQ
Happy tummies
While the rest was tired and wanted to go back to bed, I still decided to do a little shopping at Namdaemun (souvenirs for people back home). Like what I mentioned previously, Namdaemun closes early so luckily we were able to still catch atleast 2 stores open. First store, I needed to buy some tea (ginseng tea) for my parents (I always get tea wherever I go). Next we dropped by a souvenir shop for pasalubong (which is a Filipino tradition where you buy trinkets or small things to bring back home for friends and family and extends to people in your workplace). We got some ref magnets, calendars, keychains, etc. Next we checked out Olive and Young for some grooming products and I got a perfume from Yves Rocher that was on sale.
Options, options, options
Last stop for the night was coffee at Holly’s. There I saw this cute 2018 planner (planners are very popular in Manila especially during Christmas and this is being offered by coffee chains like Starbucks, Seattle’s Best and The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf). I was attracted to the summery design that I had to have one. It was a little pricey but since I’ll be using it for the entire year, I thought it will be worth it. 
2018 planner




Chilling on a cold day at Seoul
As Chris and I were enjoying our coffee (yes coffee again), it began to snow a little. While everyone hurried inside to catch shelter, we did the opposite and went out and took pictures. For us who live in a tropical country, seeing and experiencing snow is always a treat. Although I’ve experienced snow before, I always welcome it.


Snow in Seoul


Snowing tonight
After a lot of pictures and even some videos walking by the street it was time to call it a day (a long day to be exact) and get some rest.

Expenses for the day:

Park ticket – 51,000 KRW (discounted for foreigners (originally 54,000 KRW), make sure you have your passport) (2372 PHP*)
Bus ride (roundtrip) – 12,000 KRW (558 PHP*)
Lunch – 8,000 KRW (372 PHP*)
Snack – 4,500 KRW (290 PHP*)
Dinner – 18,500 KRW (860 PHP*)
Coffee – 4,500 KRW (290 PHP*)

* Based on a conversion rate of 1 PHP = 21.5 KRW

Day 4

Since this is the last day before our flight back, we reserved this day for Nami Island. Can’t really give instructions on how we got there because a friend of a friend (a friend of a friend of a friend, hahaha) met up with us and drove us to the wharf going to Nami (yes, we saved money for the fare and we had our own ride which was awesome).

By car it took us more than an hour I guess and I liked that we can see the scenery on our way there. Since it snowed a little last night, we had a nice view of the surroundings with lightly covered snow.

Lunch
Nami isn’t a big island. We accidentally got lost and didn’t know where the wharf was and we were driving by the island already. We were able to find our way (just look for tourists buses and there you will be) and the area where the wharf is had ample parking, lots of places to eat, convenience stores and looks like during the summer, some water activities at the lake (not sure if that was a lake).
View from the wharf

You can reach Nami 2 ways, the traditional way by riding the barge/boat which is a 10 minute ride. Or, you can also zip line your way there. Yes, zip line. I would have wanted to try it if it wasn’t winter and cold air rushing to my face is not something I would want since I was already cold that day. But it looks like fun.

Flags of different countries

On our way to Nami
Nami is actually pretty small and walkable. There are several café’s and shops dotted around so you can take your time, enjoy and have some coffee, eat or shop around. We tried their Nami blend tea and it was good. You can also purchase it so you can have the Nami blend when you get back home.

Nami Island Cafe
Goodies and souvenirs
Tea and some chocolate
A little snow outside the cafe
You can walk around and take in the scenery slowly or you can take a small van/shuttle (I don’t know how to call it) so you can sit down and enjoy the view without getting tired.


Enjoying the view
Cold day at Nami


Beautiful cold day at Nami


Welcome to Nami


The most popular place in the island during autumn must be the tree lined street where the leaves are just golden brown. 
Thankful for today
Unfortunately, since it was the last days of autumn and crossing already to winter when we were there, the autumn foliage has already fallen. But it made the street burst into a color yellow and you can say that we enjoyed taking pictures frolicking in the leaves. Thing to note though that the leaves may not be as clean, I mean c’mon several people has already walked there, etc. and I there were times the leaves where wet I dunno why and maybe wildlife has already peed there I dunno. Just make sure to sanitize your hands afterwards.


Everyone is having fun


Smile
After taking several (I mean a million) photos we decided to call it a day since we needed to go back to the city to beat the traffic, which we sorta did.


Artwork

Since we still have an early evening, what better way to cap our trip than going back to Myeongdong for some streetfood and shopping.

Out of everything I tried, which was 2 things, hahaha, the chicken poppers, chicken bits or whatever was the best. I couldn’t really enjoy eating as it was too cold, there were lots of people and it was cold (plus the food stall options seemed to be almost the same).


Glazed chicken

With hunger averted, we were ready to do some last minute shopping to make sure we have everything. Good thing it was Black Friday and stores had their Black Friday sale and promotions going on. Who could say no to more K-Beauty products right? I got some face masks, hand creams and moisturizer (for me) at SkinFood. Also got some hand creams and lip balms at Tony Moly. Also as requested by a friend, also dropped by Etude house to buy her moisturizer.


Skin Food


Tony Moly
One thing I couldn’t resist is shoes and passing by a store that had a sale sign, was instant kryptonite for me. Like seriously like a moth to a flame. They had Nike’s on sale and I just couldn’t resist white sneakers. I originally liked the one with black accents (black check mark and the word Nike) but they said it was only for women (there was actually a language barrier happening and we didn’t really quite understand each other) so I settled for an all-white which was still awesome. My friend also got the same exact shoe which was fine. New shoes make me happy so after that purchase, I was done.


White sneakers

Since we were not able to properly eat dinner, Chris and I decided to catch a late dinner and fill ourselves for the last time with some bibimbap. Funny because we were just looking at the sign when the old lady said it was delicious and kinda liked told us to go in already. We didn’t have a choice but to go in and I guess we were having late night dinner there. Good thing a restaurant was still open (around 9PM) to accommodate us (although we were the only ones eating there). It was full circle, my first dinner in Seoul was bibimbap, and now on my last night, I'm having bibimbap again.

Bibimbap
Myeongdong closes a little late so you can still shop late in the evening. Most stores open are the K-beauty stores. Myeongdong also has a huge Uniqlo, H&M, Zara, and Guess to name a few. There are also shopping malls around but you need to do your shopping before 10PM.

Myeongdong
Spao
Myeongdong at night


Hollys Coffee Myeongdong



Expenses for the day:

Ferry ticket to Nami – 8,000 (372 PHP*)
Lunch – 10,000 (465 PHP*)
Street Food – 8,000 (372 PHP*)
Late Night Dinner – 8,000 (372 PHP*)

* Based on a conversion rate of 1 PHP = 21.5 KRW

Day 5

It was a tiring and cold trip but it was a trip full of good times and happy memories. After a tiring night of packing (making sure everything we bought would fit in our luggage and we would not exceed the allowed baggage limit), we are ready to say goodbye to Seoul. The good thing about staying at 24 Guesthouse Myeongdong Avenue is that the airport bus is a couple of meters away. No need to pull your luggage around to catch your ride. The bus interval is around 15 – 20 minutes and would take an hour or so to reach Incheon airport. Again if you will use your T Money card, you get a discounted fare of 13,500 KRW. Also a tip, my friend only has 10,000 KRW left on his card, good thing there’s an option to pay cash so he added 3,500 cash to pay for the bus fare.

Packed up and ready to go
Incheon is a nice airport (and is always included in the top airports in the world). Shopping is nice and you have many options to choose from. Also, you may now claim your tax refund for your purchases of 30,000 KRW and above. Thing to note, they issue cash refund only. No refund will be credited back to your credit card.

Before I left, one thing I wanted to try was this burger chain in Seoul called Lotteria. It was alright, atleast I was able to taste the Lotteria burger and fries, hahaha. Plus I got to use my tax refund to pay for my food, whoohoo.


Burger and fries by Lotteria

Expenses for the day:

Bus to Incheon 13,500 KRW (627 PHP*)
Lotteria lunch 6,000 KRW (279 PHP*)

* Based on a conversion rate of 1 PHP = 21.5 KRW


It was a cold, short but sweet 5 days (technically just 4 because the last day we went directly to the airport).

I wished we could have planned to stay longer (I had originally wanted 7 days) so that we could have more time to explore more places and not rush.

If I would come back, definitely I would return during fall for the beautiful scenery. I would probably go to Busan or check out Jeju island.

I would also allot an entire day just for shopping (make that 2 days, hahaha). I want to visit other shopping districts and really take time to check out the shopping scene (not just beauty products). 

All in all, it was a short but good vacation with friends. Now, where next?


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Street art at Seoul

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